Back in Austin

We have left the Old World. We arrived in Austin last night, 27 June 2007. ****The most useless article I took with me? My bathing suit. It was never warm enough to use it.

Language Feast

We have been staying in the very comfortable Hotel Real d´Obidos, just outside the walled village. We have walked a lot in the area. Today we turn in the car and will spend the night in Lisbon. These past weeks have been a language feast: Portuguese, Gallego, Spanish, Basque (I speak none) and French, most of which have been overlaid with a variety of accents. I love the sound and the familiar kinaesthesia in the mouth and throat when speaking. Hopefully the stimulation of switching back and forth helps keep cerebral synapses snappy. Through exposure, Glen finds he even understands languages he doesn´t speak. Every place we have visited has been more beautiful and enjoyable than our expectations. Ate logo / Until soon. Home tomorrow 27Jun07.

A Weighty Question

LBS?? KILOS?? After eating our way through Portugal, Spain and France and back through Portugal and Spain, what on earth do we weigh? I think I am the same as when I left-- maybe a pound or two less--but I am afraid the latter may be wishful thinking. Scales in Austin will bring the moment of rude reckoning. --PS 30Jun07 -- Not down, but up, 2 pounds, but 3 days back took care of it.

Musings from Portugal

The lingua franca in the countries we have visited in Europe seems to be English. Germans, Slovenians and Dutch, for example, communicate with the Portuguese, French and Spanish in English. *****Because of temperature, wind and rain in some combination, the most useful item on this trip has been my goretex jacket. We have had perhaps 6 or 7 days that were sunny all day. *****Americans would do well to borrow some energy conservation tips from the European Union. Lights in public places such as halls and bathrooms, usually turn on with motion sensors and turn off with timers. How simple. *****Our sojourn amidst chateaux in France, castle in Spain and paços in Portugal is about to end...

In Obidos, Portugal

After two nights in Lariño, we drove today from Costa da Morte (in Galicia, Spain) named the Coast of Death because of all the ship wrecks. The coast itself is beautiful despite its name, although I am sure that the area and ocean are grim in storms, especially in the winter. We are staying in Obidos (Portugal) tonight, and will spend the last night or two nights in Lisbon. We fly to Austin Wednesday 27Jun07 and arrive at night. This has been a wonderful trip but now we can´t wait to get home. We miss you all.

The Road Less Traveled

In Spain: We traveled yesterday on the centuries old pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela. The cathedral was most imposing and inspires great reverence. Then we drove to the north shore of the northernmost ria (estuary) above Pontevedra in Galicia. Pushing on beyond Muros towards Finisterre (land´s end), we found an apartment to rent just outside Lariño and will stay a few nights. There are few places in the world, I think, where one can stay on a clean beach with few people. Last night it did not get dark until 11 pm. Follow the latitude from this area to North America and see where it takes you. This morning we walked on the beach at 10 am and we were the only people on the beach. It is also safe to walk here, whereas in many remote areas it is not. The sun is out! We have not had many sunny days on this trip, but have enjoyed ourselves very much nonetheless. We were told that there was no internet access in Muros by several people this morning but, being persistent with our inquiries, we found a place on a little side street.

On the Road

We cannot always get into our email on these public computers, as is the case today and which is annoying. Our circuitous, spontaneous route in Spain has been: overnight in Vitoria > medieval Frias on the Ebro River (we went on a wild search for a covered bridge) and also found a medieval town and a nuclear plant > overnight in Astorga with Gaudi palace > Ponferrada with Templar Fort > through Galicia mountains with lunch in Sarria (if you can find it on a map) > Portomarin on the Miño River where we are spending the night in a Posada for Santiago de Compostelas pilgrims. The scenery is beautiful and we have stopped in interesting small towns and hamlets. We see many hikers and cyclists. All is well until I can post more detail.

Vitoria / Gasteiz, Spain

We spent last night in the capital of Basque Country. There is a medieval walled city in its center that is interesting. Peaches are in season--fresh, perfectly ripe, and dripping with juice. We bought some last night and have eaten them all. This morning we head west...

Sarlat-la-Caneda and Medieval Perigueux

Yesterday we visited Sarlat-la-Caneda, which is like a town out of a storybook. Film makers like to use Sarlat to shoot films set in the Middle Ages. Today we spent time walking in the medieval section of Perigueux, only some 15 miles from where we are staying. *****Notes: 1) President Sarkozy's UMB Party got a comfortable majority in yesterday's parliamentary elections, which should make some economic reform possible--under protest and strikes I would expect. 2) Tomorrow we leave for Spain and then Portugal. For the first part of the drive, we plan to follow the French [Pilgrimage] Route to Santiago de Compostela. 3) This afternoon we say good-bye to Le Cyber in Brantome, called the Venice of the Perigord. Hopefully we will find easy access to the internet over the next week. 4) We have not been able to go canoeing. Too much rain; the rivers are running too high and fast. 5) The Perigord is lush, beautiful and full of historic structures dating back as far as the Romans. It is more than one can take in. It saturates the senses.

Flashback: Ventenac / Carcassonne

We enjoyed our time with Bob, Claudie, Clara and Remy. Good food, good company, and a lovely house overlooking Carcassonne and the Pyrenees!
PS - Claudie's recipe for roasted Vegetables à la Carcassonne with midi spices has been a hit with my epicurean friends.